Las Mujeres Plus One in Buenos Aires

23 May

Maybe it’s because we have to regularly answer the question, “Why did you move to Buenos Aires?” But, it seems most long-term expats I’ve met here are all endeavoring to improve themselves in one way or another. Learning to create a more balanced work-life ratio has definitely been a focus of mine, and a recent visit from the fam was a happy way to check up on how I’m doing.

Case in point, when I lived in Los Angeles, I never took the trek through the Hollywood Hills, until some of my oldest friends made the trip out to visit.

“It is one of the blessings of old friends that you can afford to be stupid with them.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson-

I never made the journey to the Grand Canyon until my mom road-tripped with me back to L.A. for my second year of TFA (Teach For America), and we did everything possible to prolong our arrival.

A trip to Flagstaff should really never end with out heading south to Sedona.

I never even made it to Disney Land until one my best friends, a badass hair dresser in New York, visited and giddily insisted on frolicking about the Magic Kingdom for an afternoon.

This is not an app.

So, when my mom and sister’s trip to Buenos Aires approached, I was delighted to find that I already had an extensive list of “my favorite” places to take them. This served as proof that amidst the flurry of daily life, I was managing to accomplish one of my goals here – to have an outside-of-work life … on a regular basis.

Moving to a foreign country in part demands this. Unlike the Grand Canyon or Niagara Falls, which will always be somewhat accessible in the States, very likely, this period of time is my one chance to understand Argentina through the way it displays its art, creates community, and parties on the weekends.

And so, thanks to my own homework, and the helpful advice of some generous students (and despite a raging stomach flu), I managed to show off the parts of this city I love, conquer some new adventures, and appreciate my many blessings in my life.

If you’re currently in Buenos Aires and contemplating what to do with traveling loved-ones (or about to come yourself), here are some suggestions:

1. Estancia La Candelaria

One of my students from the town of Lobos suggested to go here for a “dia del campo,” and it was a perfect start to the trip. Going through Lobos Bus, it takes about an hour and a half to get there. I highly recommend it!

First reason why: There’s the comforting familiarity of Starbucks on the opposite corner of the bus station.

Second reason: At the estancia, they feed you all day long, and the grub is DELICIOUS!

The day kicked off with some traditional empanadas. They reminded us of the ones our kind friends made us at SPCC before our move:)

Meat roasting from the time we arrived.

Argentine brunch. These ribs seasoned with nothing but salt were the best of my entire life.

The friendly, talented dancers/gauchos/servers made the camp feel a bit like Kellerman’s. One of the men even strode up to our table and all but demanded a dance with Baby-I-mean-Emily (not pre-choreographed).

Reason #3: The estancia provides the space and amenities to do a lot of normal family stuff that small Buenos Aires apartments don’t really accommodate. Such as …

Reason #4: It also provides a bunch of more unique activities.

Getting pulled by a horse while sitting on cowhide

Horse back riding

Walking tree-lined country roads

Visiting old churches

2. Walk the Palermo Park

Walk Los Bosques de Palermo. Serene stroll by day, transvestite street worker locale by night.

End up at El Rosedal

3. Visit Evita’s grave at the Recoleta Cemetary

Pay the small entrance fee for a view of the catacombs where you can peer out the windows of the monastery the monks never left and see a modern version of what was their only glimpse of the outside world.

4. Plaza de Mayo

We skipped the Obelisco and opted instead to check out …

La Casa Rosada

When I asked my students about must-see sites in Buenos Aires, Cafe Tortoni was hands-down the most popular recommendation. The old-school cafe embodies Porteño nostalgia.

It’s super touristy but worth the trip for a cafecito and look into B.A.’s past. Hi Stephen! (My family is infamously terrible at taking pictures, and Stephen’s behind the camera in most of these adventures – thanks:)

5. San Telmo Market

Check out the San Telmo market on a Sunday afternoon.

6. Colonia, Uruguay

Why get one stamp in your passport when such a pleasant boat ride can get you two? This was my mom and sister’s big vacation for the year, and Colonia – particularly the beautiful vista at the Radisson in Colonia – was the perfect place for them to relax.

7. Tango Show

The quintessential touristy tango show will have you sitting amongst a bunch of foreigners. But you will still feel totally entranced by the other-worldliness of the dancers and especially the musicians. I couldn’t recommend more La Ventana – with their phenomenal six-man accordian orchestra. I’ve been twice and loved it both times.

(Had the stomach flu not crept into their visit, I also would have definitely taken them to a Tuesday night dance lesson and Milonga at La Catedral – a favorite venue among all locals and expats who have ever been there.)

There’s nothing that makes you feel loved like having your friends and family take time out of their busy lives to join you on your own adventure. Mom and Emilita, come back any time!!!

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5 Responses to “Las Mujeres Plus One in Buenos Aires”

  1. Sarah May 23, 2012 at 8:26 am #

    What a fun trip! You are quite the hostess Maggs. Nothing like flying on a cowhide with the stomach flu I’m sure!

  2. Linda Wesner May 23, 2012 at 9:40 am #

    Maggie,
    Your thoughts on “life balancing” are really wonderful, and the commentary and pics of you and your mother that Stephen took are a treasure. Please keep up your personal journey as you travel through this country – and share it with us!

  3. Trisha Dena May 23, 2012 at 11:53 am #

    Thank you for sharing these beautiful photos and experience with us- Sarah is right, you are quite the hostess . <3

  4. La Gitanita May 23, 2012 at 6:27 pm #

    Maggie, this is lovely. Glad to hear another expat is doing well for herself. :)

  5. mary bushek May 24, 2012 at 12:07 am #

    Thanks Maggie and Stephen for being such wonderful hosts. I loved every minute of my visit.

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